“Miss, are you gonna fold the slice?”
Sunday, September 4th, 2011I was standing in the pizza place near my school in the Bronx, having just accepted a paper plate full of bubbling cheese. The voice belonged to Astrid, one of my classroommate Vanessa’s advisees. Astrid is a recent NYC transplant from California, and I understood immediately the purpose of her question, which essentially asks, “Are you a New Yorker? And if you aren’t, have you been assimilated?”
My immediate, gut reaction to the first question is no, but the second requires a bit more thought. My writing shows that I set myself against New York when I lived here, but began associating with it and longing for it almost as soon as I left. My reasons for leaving New York in the summer of 2008 are well-documented on this website and in countless conversations with family and friends. I have made dramatic pronouncements such as that New York teems with humans but doesn’t have enough space for humanity, and that it is not the dwelling place of my soul. Such things are dramatic, but many of the things I remember from those five years have to do with how I fashioned myself as a Mainer in exile. I loved it when people assumed I wasn’t a native and asked me where I was from, and was even more delighted if they said something like, “Oh, Maine’s so beautiful–what are you doing here?” which they often did. Unquestionably, I considered Portland not only my home, but the geographic source of everything real and good and true about me, and about everything else, too.
But if that sign with the picture of a lobster and the words “Welcome Home” in the Portland airport tugs at my heart, it is equally true that that same heart swells at the first sight of signs advertising SCRAP METAL off the Cross Bronx Expressway as I head south from New England. Swaying into the left lane to merge onto 278? Forget it. I’ve been misty-eyed since the exit for Co-op City Blvd. During my two year hiatus in Boston, a city which never charmed me despite meeting some great friends, from 2008-10, this divided loyalty had even more opportunity to demonstrate itself. I loved that Portland felt closer, not just because it was easier to visit, because the people I met recognized it as an actual place unto itself, not just as yet another place people leave to move to New York. But I also spent a lot of the first year dating a guy in Brooklyn, and when that ended, I still allied myself with New York and luxuriated in the cool cred that was granted to me for saying flip things like that Boston’s blandness made me worry that I was going soft.
Among my 2003 Teaching Fellows cohort, there were a lot of us who came to New York for an adventure. We had heard that you should live here for a while when you’re young so you’ll be more cultured and interesting later in life. I was in New York indefinitely–retirement plan and all–but I never stopped thinking of it something temporary and experimental. I watched my new friends dig into the New York experience–taking swing lessons at Lincoln Center, photographing each other walking the Brooklyn Bridge, poring over reviews and going to off-Broadway shows–and wondered why I wasn’t doing those things, why I never seemed to know what movie was showing for free in Battery Park. And mostly, I wondered why I couldn’t really seem to care, not in any sustained way, anyway.
I don’t mean to suggest that the city didn’t or doesn’t impress me, or that I haven’t spent a fair amount of time playing in it. And I was doing a lot more of those New York-y things than I thought I was at the time. But those memories don’t overlap much with the more visceral snapshots of moments when I’ve felt a real sense of belonging. Those bits aren’t about having a fabulous time at all; in fact, they are utterly mundane, like a brief shared eye-roll with a stranger on the subway when something mildly outrageous has happened, or realizing that it is surprisingly hard to find an ATM in Chinatown and recalling that I have already noted that, or anytime I’m walking on the street by myself, where I know I look like I’ve got business, even when I’m not 100% sure where I’m going.
But I never feel more like a real New Yorker than when I’m in Maine, where someone need only say something like, “The traffic on 302 is terrible!” or express the deeply held belief that it is absolutely necessary to own real estate before getting married or having a baby, to make me feel impatient, foreign, and profoundly connected to New York. At these moments, I am forced to contend with the fact that it is the place where I became an adult. The place that made me an adult. It was here that I learned things like how to pick a restaurant, how to be in bars, what is reasonable behavior at work and on a date, and living here is what made it important to know those things in the first place. I can’t change the set of priorities and sensibilities I have, at least not quickly, and more importantly, I don’t want to. I can’t deny the fact that I do think I’m more cultured and interesting from living in New York, even if I thought I was putting up a fight.
But the putting up a fight is, I think, the secret to all the city’s magic to me. Perhaps it is different for natives, but for a transplant to teach in public schools, to make friends, to find love, even to grocery shop or fill a prescription, require psychological and emotional fitness and physical effort. There is nothing to default to, no foolproof routine. Living that way can get the better of you because it demands the best of you. But what’s better than your best?
Back in New York for another round, I notice that people have stopped assuming that I’m from somewhere else. So it wasn’t the dimples, then, or the function over form footwear. At Vanessa’s wedding recently, someone insisted that I have a New York accent. I don’t, but nothing about my speech (except for a stray “wicked” that I have carefully preserved) suggests that I’m from Maine either. Over dinner one night this spring, my roommate’s friend Peter, a Brooklyn native, asked what my Bulldogs sweatshirt was about and when I told him it was from my high school in Portland, Maine, he gasped, “Oh! I was sure you were a New York girl! You’ve got the attitude.” I have to admit that I liked it. I can’t quite explain how, but it made me feel like I am still young, still strong, still capable of being both exciting and excited.
I love Portland, and I’m always proud to tell people where I’m from. I can get into any hard shell lobster, I wince when people pronounce Maine’s second largest city “Bang’er,” and I know that a summer residence, no matter its size, is a camp, not a lakehouse or a cottage or something uppity like that. But like knowing what movie is showing in Battery Park, those are basically superficial things that don’t have much to do with what it takes or what it means to live in Maine. If I decide to move to Portland, which I still fantasize about doing, I will have to endure a version of the period of loneliness and homesickness that any transplant endures.
But, for the record: no, I don’t fold pizza. Astrid, I hope this answers your question.